Perks on Earth

Today I am leaving probably the most beautiful country I have been lucky enough to visit. Since the first moment we entered Loas, I have had emotion sitting at the back of my throat brought on by her breathtaking landscapes. A country so underrated in what I’ve heard, has lodged herself at the top of my list of must return places. The last 10 days have shown us some truly awe inspiring views, new friends, memorable experiences, and an insight into true Laos culture. From entering the country along the Mekong river on the slow boat, there has not been a day I have not completely loved (that’s actually a lie, a hangover did steal a day from me but we won’t count it!). Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng have left a taste for return in me, and I’m not complaining. I could probably write a book on my admiration of this country, but I’ll spare you all the time – so here are some of my best bits of the last 10 days.

Kuang Si Waterfall

A bumpy 45 minute Tuktuk ride outside Luang Prabang lies one of the gems of Laos. The Kuang Si Waterfall was at the top of my must see Laos stops, but I could never have comprehended the beauty we would be immersed in. Walking up to the falls we found ourselves surrounded by linked blue lagoons, the most beautiful turquoise color I have ever seen. Losing the group, I wound my way through the lagoons, guided by the sounds of crashing water. As I reached a small crowd of people, I caught my breath. The falls are like nothing I have ever seen. Reaching high into the jungle’s canopy, blue water cascaded down rocks into the lagoon below. Standing there was another pinch me moment, the beauty of nature so real, and right before my eyes. Spotting a trail to the right of the falls I headed to see where it would lead, finding Jack, Angus and Beckett en route. A steep incline greeted us as we clambered up. But knowing that a steep climb is always worth it, we persevered and pushed on through the humidity and slight fear of spiders.

Reaching the flat, I was left speechless. Through the maze of lagoons and low hanging flora, the source of the waterfall. Over the rushing water was the most spectacular view I have yet to witness in my 23 years on earth, and one I will not forget anytime soon. The natural beauty in front of me caught in my throat and brought real tears down my cheeks as I sat to take it all in. To be sat there, at the top of this natural wonder, it hit me just how lucky, how blessed, I am to be able to see such beauty. I have always been mindful and aware of the privilege required to be able to leave my home country and travel to places I’ve longed dreamed of. I remember how lucky I am each and every morning. But sitting there, in the most beautiful place I have ever seen, really brought it all home. This experience is a true blessing, and my tears were the only contribution I could make as thanks.

As the others joined us, the happiness of it all bubbled through. Playing dancing queen as we navigated our way back down to the waterfalls base, dancing and laughing at this beautiful experience, contentment hit once again. Swimming in the beautiful (but verrry cold) water of the lagoons, I was surrounded by so much love and happiness. I guess in a way what I’ve always been chasing. Our first few days in Laos, and I don’t think I was the only one who was already in love.

Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng is well known for being the location of some of the most affordable hot air balloon experiences in the world. However, most affordable didn’t mean it was in my own backpacker budget. Admitting defeat but also relief that I wouldn’t have to face my fear of heights, I resigned myself to the non-flying members of the group. I forgot amiss all this Dara Cullimore was involved, and so with a big hug and a smile, he informed me that as a Christmas gift a balloon would be waiting for us the next morning at sunrise. What can I say, he’s the best.

We woke up bright and early the next morning while the sky was still dark. As we boarded a tuk tuk anxious apprehension filled my belly, overwhelmed only by the sense of excitement around me. We arrived to the Balloon sight to see three colourful balloons being prepared for their morning flight. Men running around frantically prepared ropes and baskets before the burner would be turned on to inflate the balloons and carry us all into the sky. As we waited for a dangerous looking rain cloud to pass, we were given some vague instructions and quickly piled into the baskets- ready for takeoff. I didn’t have time to worry about my fear of heights, and before we knew it, lift off! Creeping higher and higher into the sky, I quickly forgot about the 1000 meters we would be reaching, and caught my breath at the landscape spreading below us. As we climbed, the valleys surrounding Vang Vieng came into view, their dramatic borders of mountains separating the landscape, painted in wisps of mist and cloud. Hugging Dara for both safety and happiness, I was entirely elated, disbelief coursing through my mind. As we reached our maximum height, we all serenaded Ralph happy birthday to ring in his 24th year (and the best birthday balloon ever!).

As the wind picked up, we were treated to a slightly worrying but altogether very entertaining landing, as our balloon went off piste to be chased down by the men on land, scrabbling over a thin rope our pilot tossed down. Laughing together as we safely touched down (eventually) we disembarked and we’re greeted by the entire staff team singing happy birthday with a cake inscribed with “Happy Birthday Ralph”. A wholesome end to the most mesmerizing experience, and all this before 7am! Pinching myself at how lucky we all were, and how lucky I was that Dara gifted me such an amazing experience, I happily dozed dreaming of floating in the skies, a dream that will happily follow me for a long time.

We celebrated Ralph’s birthday with some rowdy tipsy tubing, taking to the river with 60 other excited backpackers, tubes and BeerLao’s at the ready. A rowdy bunch to say the least, we set off down the river, stopping at bars for Beerlao top ups and boozy dance parties. Aside from the drunken laughs, the views were (once again!) absolutely amazing, drifting tipsily down the river laughing and sharing stories. Back to Nana hostel for a pool party and some more beers, Ralph’s birthday was one I won’t be forgetting anytime soon.

We spent 5 days in Vang Vieng, exploring lagoons in a tuk tuk, hiking to Nam Xay viewpoint for sunset (AMAZING), renting buggies to shoot some shots with Dara’s drone, enjoying our first Banh Mis, and enjoying some great food (Kiwi Kitchen- the best!). Vang Vieng treated us to a mix of everything – beautiful scenery, fun experiences, new friends, and lots of parties. Saying goodbye was bitter sweet, as I will long miss those valleys, but perhaps a rest on a 32 hour bus is exactly what my body might need!

Laos has also taught me the subjectivity of travel. Everyone’s experience of a place is so vastly different and unique. Laos was described to me repeatedly as a place of stopover en route to Vietnam, somewhere to skip if you were short on time. These are descriptions I will not be passing on, because my own experience here must have been so different to those of others. Places we see in this world are not only shaped by what we see, but who we meet, what we are lucky or unlucky enough to encounter, and how much of a chance we give. Laos has been the first place I have travelled where my expectations have been non-existent, and I attribute this fact to my surprising love for this country. Expecting nothing, I have been so beautifully surprised each and everyday. As I board a bus from Vientiane to Hanoi, preparing for 32 hours of bus travel I can’t help but feel a sadness to leave. Laos is a country so beautiful, and one I will be returning to I have no doubt. If you can, I would urge anyone to come to Laos, and to come with an open mind. I hope you will be as surprised as I have been.