Perks on Earth

We arrived to Sapa without a plan. Having heard Dara’s stories of his adventure in the rice terraces of Northern Vietnam, I was hooked, and not about to leave Vietnam without trekking through this landscape. Always a fan of a good Blog, I got reading online about the best way to organize a trekking adventure in SaPa. I found that nearly everyone recommended the unorganized approach – go with an open mind and you will find adventure. As nervous as this non-plan made us, we all embraced that the next few days would be a big what-if. All I can say is, it really paid off.

No sooner had we disembarked our bus in Sapa’s city center were we greeted by four smiling women, all bidding for our attention. Feeling bad for giving one of them our time over another, we were happy to learn that in fact they were all together, friends and trekking guides from a small village outside Sapa called Hah Thao. The ladies immediately captured us all in their chattering smiley charm, and the six of us were won over. Agreeing to meet them the following morning and stay with them for the next two days, they gifted us handwoven bracelets and sent us on our way, laughing and chattering, their happiness infectious.

After exploring Sapa for an evening and investing in some rain gear, we spent a restful night at Lustig Hostel and packed our bags for two days of trekking. We woke up to the beautiful sound of rain, before quickly realizing we would be out in the elements for the day. Getting a big breakfast in, we wrapped up in various layers of waterproof jackets, plastic bags, and the iconic multicolored ponchos. Meeting Mama Mu and Mama Chay outside our hostel, I don’t blame them for giggling at our preparations (or unpreparedness perhaps). After a quick chat about route changes because of the weather, we decided to head up into the mountains for our first day, across the hills towards Mama Mu’s home in Hah Thao.

Day 1 : Sapa – Sa Sang – Hao Thu – Hao Thao

Leaving Sapa we met Tên, who would be walking us to MaMa Mu’s home. We were joined by Zufi, who at 10 years old put us all the shame with her calm and poise as we headed up a steep climb into the mountains. That first day was a beautiful introduction into life in the rural towns of Northern Vietnam. Tên captured us all with her insight into Hmong life, and despite the heavy mist and rain, we all kept in step with her, fascinated by everything she said. The people who live in the villages surrounding Sapa are called Hmong. The ladies we walked with were the black Hmong, so called because of the dark dye they use in making their clothing. Despite the growing popularity of Northern Vietnam as a destination for western tourists, the Hmong people maintain a largely traditional way of life. We saw this everywhere, from the way they dresses, to their homes, family lives, and how they farmed their own produce in small amounts for their own needs.

The first day we left Sapa across the mountains to Sa Sang village and Hau Thu, where we stopped for the lunch of champions. Shedding layers of wet ponchos and bags, we tucked into mountains of fried rice and noodles, accompanied by the restaurant owners home made ginger, honey, and lemongrass tea. Looking back, I am questioning if I have ever been as cold as I was before that tea came out, and if I’ve even consumed anything as delicious as that tea! After our lunch, we got ready to brave the storm again, hesitantly peeling wet ponchos back on and convincing ourselves it would all be worth it. And of course, it was without a doubt.

After lunch we trekked through more farmland before starting a very steep decent towards ahah Thao, the village Tân and Mama Mu were from. We passed countless Buffalo en route, which are raised by the Hmong people to plough the rice fields, left to their own devises and ensured a long and happy life in the hills in return for the occasional journey across the terraces. Tân also showed us the iconic Indigo plant, used to dye the clothes worn by the Black Hmong people. Rubbing the plant in our hands, a bright green color left the plant, which later turned to a dark grey, staining our hands and fingernails. Working so regularly with the Indigo, it’s not hard to see why the Hmong ladies have permanently stained hands from the dye!

A night at Mama Mu’s beautiful home

Navigating the downhill as the rains continued to pour, we were all relieved and excited to reach Mama Mus home, greeted by her family and a roaring fire, which we were quick to huddle around for warmth. Mama Mus home was an absolute highlight for us all. Not only was she so kind to welcome into her home, she put on some show. Tucked away in her attic, we’re 6 mattresses, made up and ready for us after our day of walking. After drying off and warming up, ears started to prick up as the rich aromas rose from the kitchen. At the same time, the rain and mist gave us a surprise, clearing as the sunset to show us all the beauty of the landscape we had spent the day exploring. There was something so strangely beautiful in seeing, finally, the views we had come all this way for. And I’m realizing how we had had the most amazing day without seeing these views, all the while the mountains and terraces hiding behind its veil of mist. Cameras out, I captured it as best I could, before the ladies from the village arrived, and the real feast began.

Tucking into a banquet, we all laughed and exchanged stories over Vietnamese spring rolls, beansprouts, tomato tofu, cucumber salad, cabbage, and of course the star of the show, Mama Mus own grown rice. No matter the appetite we had worked up on the mountain, we could not muster the hunger to finish all the food, and had to hand in our defeat. The star of the show came out as dessert, the infamous ‘happy water’. Known as happy water because it makes you drunk, and therefore happy, the drink of choice in this region is Rice Wine, rumored to provide numerous health benefits and mysteriously, no hangover. I’m not sure how much I believe the latter, but it for sure had a kick to it. After numerous rounds of rice wine poured, we bit our goodbyes to Mama Tong and Mama Chay, who headed back to their families for the night. Clearing the tables and reintegrating just how amazing the food was, the six of us crouched back around the fire to play cards before bed. 9pm has never felt so late, so after (finally) someone beat Beckett in shithead?, we headed upstairs, for one of the best sleeps of my life.

Day 2 : Hao Thao – Tu Van – Lao Chai – Y Linh Ho – Cat Cat – Sapa

Lazily waking to the morning calls of roosters, we were greeted downstairs by Mama Mu’s arms full of bananas, scrambled egg, and fresh steaming pancakes. The only thing better than the food, was the sunshine! The valley where Mama Mu lived spread before us, the rain from the night before making the entire basin look like it was sparkling in the morning sun. Pancakes, the sun, views, and a coffee later, we were all rearing to go, maybe to see some of the views we had missed on the rainy previous day.

Before heading off on our trek, Mama insisted we try on her ‘happy new year’ clothes, all made by her own hand. There was great excitement as she and her husband draped us in the beautiful fabrics and jewelry, Suzi awarded the main costume and striking headpiece. After a photo shoot and some help translating facebooks for Mama, we changed back into more appropriate walking gear and heading down into the valley for our last day in Sapa.

The day was beautiful, and though we did get a few rain showers, it didn’t matter – the views simply made everything worth it. Walking on mud paths along rice terraced valleys was undoubtedly one of my favorite things I’ve been lucky enough to do on this trip. And what made the day even better was that Mama Mu was with us every step of the way, sharing her local knowledge and expertise in navigating the landscape. We walked down to Ta Van and Lao Chai, two of the main tourist villages outside of Sapa. Stopping for (more) food and some shopping, we headed back up over the mountains, eager to brave some challenging terrain to see the valley beneath Sapa town – CatCat. As we headed out across the terraces, after a few muddy slips and wet shoes (not looking at Ella F) I heard a scream come from Mama, followed by an Aussie accent scream ‘F***ING HUGE F***ING MASSIVE SNAKKKKEEE!!”. To say we all turn tail and ran, we sprinted. Laughing and relieved, India and Mama Mu had just seen one of the worlds top 5 deadliest snakes, in a place where there weren’t supposed to be any dangerous snakes! Laughing and slightly on edge, Mama led us down a different track, giving the snake a wide berth and watching the ground all the more carefully. Eventually, we forgot all worries of the snake as we entered CatCat valley, terraced mountains and the highest peak in Vietnam displayed proudly before us. I walked at the back of the group with Mama, sharing stories of life and love, and learning about the amazing woman she is. And she is a really amazing woman, one who I will hold in my heart for a long long time.

Soon we had to give up the chatting as we headed of the climb back to Sapa we had been warned about. Out of breath and sweating happy water (according to Mama) we finally reached the outskirts of Sapa and loaded up on water and ice cream for the final stretch. Hugging goodbye to Mama was bitter sweet. Such an amazing individual to have been able to spend time with, giving us all a glimpse at the Hmong way of life, and opening the doors into her home and family, I won’t forget her. If anyone reading this is heading to Sapa, please don’t hesitate to contact me to get in touch with her, she is one amazing woman! Also – if anyone reading this is potentially considering going to Sapa, do it. Get on a bus, go without a plan, and you’ll be rewarded in the richest experience. After 40km and two days, the six of us didn’t stop smiling the entire time. Well that could be a lie… the last climb to the heights of Sapa was pretty rough – but again, so worth it!