Perks on Earth

Laos has always been on my bucket list, the reason being the means of getting there. Along the Mekong river over the course of two days, the slow boat to Luang Prabang is what has enticed me. Since starting this trip, I have met countless people who speak of the slow boat with high recommendation. I knew from the get go that I was going to make it work, and tick off another bucket list item while slowly travelling down the Mekong river.

Leaving Chiang Mai at 4am we headed to Chiang Khong to exit Thailand and cross into Loas. Tired and weary, our passports were stamped for 30 days of Laos and we set off for Huay Xai to the slow boats start point. Stepping over the border is like taking a step back in time. Small roads winded through green landscapes, wooden huts dotted across the hills and riverside. Smiling vendor owners greeted us at the river side, selling everything we would need for our two day journey – which consisted mainly of Beerlao! The boat itself is a traditional Laos slowboat, wooden and filled with seats from buses, planes, offices and benches – none of which are held down. We took our seats up the front and tucked our bags below deck, settling in for the long trip ahead. As we waited for the boat to leave, heat and exhaustion caught up with us, and thoughts of the long journey began to seem less than attractive. However, as soon as we pulled out of Huay Xai pier, my angst quickly dissipated, replaced with utter awe. The banks of the Mekong are lined with dramatic landscapes, rolling hills, steep cliffs, and white rocks surprising us after every turn. As we wound our way down the river, I stared at the surrounding, taking in as much as I could, entirely content.

As the hours went by and the views continued to amaze, we all slept and lounged happily, the tiredness and beers sending everyone into some strange sleeping positioning. As the sun sank, we arrived at Pak Beng, our stop over after the first leg of the journey. Despite the early start and somewhat uncomfortable journey, it was all worth it. After our first Laotian dinner (I had veggie curry, just to keep the curry streak going) I headed for our very comfortable stay at Monsavanh guesthouse, and had one of the bests sleeps ever, excited for another day on the boat.

The journey from Pak Beng to Luang Prabang started at 9am the next morning. As we walked down to the boat, the misty weight of clouds hugged the mountain tops. As we boarded once more and started down the river, the sun slowly burned through the mist, blue skies showing their faces once more. Less tired than the day before, I was completely at ease for the entire day. Lazily reading my book, playing cards, and laughing with friends, it could have been one of my favorite days thus far. The views matched that of our first day, cows grazing lazily on the river bank as children giddily played in the water, showing off their backflips as we passed. Pure innocence, pure childhood. We stopped off along the way, collecting and dropping off people and supplies. Some young Lao girls lined the boat beside ours, selling bracelets for donations. The real sale was their smiles. Though I would say it reminded me of lemonade and cookies stands run by keen young entrepreneurs on the roads of rural Ireland, I think the financial necessity for these girls was different. Life on the Mekong is not easy, and they served as a reminder of that. No roads around, the residents of the huts along the river use the Mekong as their source. Their source of transport, of water, their source of food and of fun, evidenced by the laughing children swimming in its murky waters. A simple way of life, but not an easy one.

Arriving into the Port at Luang Prabang we were greeted by a ‘police party’, offered beers and welcomed warmly to our next stop. For two whole days, the slow journey to Luang Prabang was my favorite one yet. The importance of slow travel is taking in everything, the changes of landscape and scenery as you venture from one country to another makes it worth the time taken. A one hour flight drops you in the midst of all the change, a two day slow boat eases you in, gifting you the experience as a bonus. For anyone who has Loas on their agenda, if time allows, I personally think the slow boat is the only way to get there. An insight into the Loas culture and life on the Mekong, surrounded by spectacular landscapes all around. The people on the boat are a plus, and enjoying the experience together is something I am happily ticking off my bucket list, and will come back to time and time again for the happy memory.