Perks on Earth

After the most blissful time in Cambodia, I set my sights back on the Thai border, eager to get up to the North. Leaving Cambodia was hard, waving goodbye to new friendly faces and the beauty of such an amazing country. I arrived in Chiang Mai late at night, and quickly hopped into a TukTuk to join Ella and Suzi on their reunion with Beckett and Angus- two of the loveliest Bristolian men. After catch ups over drinks at the Chill Out bar (a dangerous place where alcohol measures are non existent) we planned our next move to Pai, where some more friendly faces were waiting.

Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is a city unlike any other place I have been in Asia. It’s old town, a perfect square surrounded by city walls and a moat, is a perfect maze of laid back streets to get lost in. That first day in Chiang Mai, we did just this, lazing around the streets and enjoying the relaxed atmosphere both the city and its residents exude. Naturally, as the three of us had just been reunited, we fell into Zeroo tattoo, where three lovely Thai ladies left their marks on us. It was such a nice experience, and for anyone who’s interested in some ink, I would recommend them beyond! Laughing at our spontaneous decision and admiring the work of the artists, we went in search of some Thai street food. We enjoyed Khao Soi curry at the local street market, a local Chaing Mai curry made from mixing red and yellow curry, served on noodles with crispy fried noodles on top for that extra crunch (oodles of noodles). It was delicious! The experience of enjoying food that’s prepared in front of your eyes is something I’ll be sure to miss when I leave, and I’ll be searching for wherever I end up! After a beautiful first day in Chiang Mai, we readied ourselves for an early morning and some windy roads to Pai.

Pai- a backpackers paradise

Nearly everyone I’ve met on this trip, has claimed Pai to be their favorite place in all of Thailand. Not wanting to get my hopes up, I tried not to carry all the amazing stories with me, but there was no need, it did not disappoint. Hidden in the mountains three hours west of Chiang Mai, Pai is a small town that has became a hit with backpackers from all over the world chasing the laid back culture and stunning surroundings Pai boasts. With streets full of resteraunts serving fresh and delicious food from around the world, local handmade goods, and countless coffee spots. The surroundings boast winding roads, dramatic landscapes, along with some of the best viewpoints I have yet to see. After living in my Cambodian bubble, I felt like I had landed in another country, one so different from the Thai South I had spent so much time in.

We arrived after the bus journey everyone feared, but lucky for me I slept the entire way (thanks to some very drowsy anti nausea tablets). Pulling into Pai bus station the atmosphere of relaxation is infectious, and as we navigated the streets to our hostel our pace slowed, settling into the pace of those around us- not in a rush anywhere. Another great thing about reaching Pai was getting to see Dara, Ralph and Jack, who had been exploring the north for nearly two weeks. My experienced tour guide and chauffeur secured, I hopped on the back of Dara’s bike and my Pai adventure began. From the Bamboo bridges, epic sunset viewpoints, boojie brunchs, and late nights at jungle parties, I can now say I understand the phrase “Pai Hole” (the act of getting stuck in Pai for a lot longer than planned). If it wasn’t for the light festival in Chiang Mai approaching, I could still be stuck there, enjoying a slow pace of life in a beautiful place.

Chiang Mai Light Festival

Arriving back to Chiang Mai was like coming back to an entirely different city. The slow streets were replaced by bustling crowds, beeping horns, and the occasional rouge fire cracker being released in the complete chaos. Cafes which I had passed with one of two tables had queues of hungry guests waiting for free tables, previously Tuktuk lined streets were empty, and their tuktuks near impossible to track down. The city was alive with people, and with light. Taking place between the 8-11th of November, the festival celebrates the full moon, releasing lanterns into the sky, and small floats called Krathongs down the river in thanks to the Goddess of Water.

Being in the city for this occasion was absolutely beautiful, and although we didn’t leave Chiang Mai itself to light our own lanterns, being in the city was a treat. Strolling around watching the Krathongs float down the rivers, sampling the busy street food stalls, and bumping into so many friendly faces, had me smiling ear to ear. We even stumbled into an odd event at an investment bank serving free Thai food – Pad Thai, papaya salad, and the most amazing coconut milk pancakes. It didn’t matter that we had just had dinner, we made a dent in all the above and it was a delight! After our food we needed to dance it off, so we headed to Zoe, much like all other backpackers, and celebrated the handsome Becketts birthday in style. The light festival and surrounding atmosphere really made me feel as though I’d visited two entirely separate Chaing Mais, and I loved both.