Perks on Earth

So far this trip, I have followed the ease of a well established backpacker route, following the cheapest travel options between islands and over land. Ella’s sister Anna had joined us in Koh Tao and was back visiting Thailand for a couple weeks. A year ago, Anna worked with GVI teaching English in a small community situated near Khao Lak on the south western coast of Thailand. We all decided to join Anna on her visit to the town, and after we finished our dive courses we set of on the journey back to Dansak and across the mainland. As we crossed to the western shore, the skies grew darker and soon the rain was pelting the bus windows as our diver navigated flooded roads and streaming water. This weather we soon found out, had been challenging the area relentlessly for three weeks, flooding houses and roads the whole way down the west coast. With hope of the rains easing, we arrived at a gorgeous homestay in Ban NamKhem ran by the even lovely Eang, one of Anna’s English students from the year before. After a warm reception and reunion between the friends, we settled in for the night happy to have a break from hostel rooms, and made a plan for the coming days crossing our fingers and toes the rain would ease. Come rain or shine however, we had a great time, and I loved the experience of being in a more authentic Thailand than what I’d seen so far.

Ban Nam Khem’s survival after the 2004 tsunami

Ban NamKhem was one of the worst affected towns in the 2004 tsunami, with 90% of its buildings destroyed and hundreds of lives lost. Many of you may remember the film ‘The Impossible’, which was actually set in the neighboring Khao Lak, which was also devastated on the 26th of December 2004. Ban Nam Khem has recently built a tsunami museum which we attended, featuring untouched fishing boats which were lifted nearly 2km inland during the tsunami. Hearing the experiences of the people in the community on this day was both heart breaking and inspiring, imagining their terror at the incoming waves, and how they have since adapted and come back from such devastation. The museum featured artifacts and audio stories about the tsunami, and an educational film about how to react in the event of a tsunami… which was great but left us a little worried as we ventured back out into the storm surrounding us. On the beach, the tsunami memorial stands overlooked by Buddha, a large wavelike wall facing engraved tiles dedicated to those who lost their lives in one of the worlds worst known natural disasters. As someone who has heard stories of my parents friends witnessing and closely surviving the tsunami, it was absolutely eye opening to hear of the extent the event effected this one small village, and how the after effects continue to shape its future.

The Thai Royal Navy base turtle conservation center

Renting bikes and heading off in the rain out of Khao Lak and into the hills we made our way to the Royal Thai Navy base, where Anna had spent time helping out during her time in Thailand. Turtles in Thailand are protected under the Royal family, and as less than 1% of turtles in the wild survive to adulthood, the Navy has intervened to raise the baby turtles till their strong enough to fend for themselves in the wide oceans, and have a better chance of survival. On arrival, we met Jimmy, who Anna had worked with and their reunion was heartwarming to witness. Jimmy treated the six of us to a private tour, explaining in detail how they collected two week old turtles and raised them till they were 6 months to a year before releasing them back to their ocean homes. We were in for a special surprise, as just two days before Jimmy had been to the Surin islands and discovered two week old babies! We got to see these and even hold them, they are surprisingly strong for such little animals! It was so nice to see the conservation center and here the professional input. Getting so close to these beautiful animals also added another item to my bucket list- see one in the wild?

Our three days in Ban Nam Khem were a nice break from the busy backpacker route of the last two weeks, and even with the rain following us, we had such a nice time the six of us! From cruising around on bikes, hiking to waterfalls, heading to the surf beach, playing cards and drinking beers in the local shop, and staying at Eang’s amazing homestay (if you’re in Ban Nam Khem- stay there! She is the nicest woman and the place is so beautiful). A beautiful way to end our time in the south of Thailand before all parting ways- next stop for me- Bangkok and then Cambodia!

Thank you Ban Nam Khem! And Anna- the best tour guide.