Perks on Earth

Before arriving in Thailand, Koh Phangan hadn’t been on my travel itinerary. However, hearing stories about the iconic monthly full moon party on the island, I felt as if I couldn’t really pass it by. The full moon parties on Phangan are renowned for boozy beach dancing from sunset to sunrise, Had Rin beach full of fire performers, vendors, and of course- the iconic booze buckets. Not entirely up my alley, I went with an open mind and low expectations, hoping for maybe some festival-like experience with like minded people.

We arrived at the island with the same intent as everyone on the crowed ferry boat- to attend the full moon and party till the sun came up. When we got into the port and to our hostel, we rented bikes and decided to explore- and over the next few days, discovered the beautiful reality of Koh Phangan, which is more than just a party.

On our first day of exploring, I sat behind Dara on our bike as we sped through every climate and season in the space of 30 minutes, taking us to the northern coast. Torrential rain was interrupted by blue skies and again replaced by wind and rain, confusing my poncho which was being constantly taken on and off. However, the ride was amazing. With the jungle surrounding us, we rode up and down the hilly northern side of the island as the coastal views spoiled us. Bottle beach, which Ralph had been recommended to visit, was tucked away down a steep sand path, not suitable for bikes (but left a sweaty walk back!). Meeting a fellow Irish man (ironic, I know), we swam and ate before following the coast to other surrounding beaches, catching the few rays of sun while we could. As the sun sank, we set back for our next mission- the full moon party on Had Rin beach.

I won’t lie, I was full of anxious energy as we headed to the beach with our hostel roommates, no idea what to expect and having heard all the horror stories imaginable. The scene on the beach matched everything I had heard. Thousands of people lined the sand, dancing to the loud music as they glowed with neon painted faces. We were quick to join them, and before we knew it, we were swallowed by the crowd, laughing and dancing with our buckets in hand. The party was great, and though it wasn’t entirely my usual idea of a good time, I rode with it and was glad we went nonetheless; just be prepared for some magaluf-esque vibes!

The following day we headed back up north, nursing slightly tired bodies but hungry for the scenes of the day prior. We were not disappointed, heading to Mae Haad beach the sun surprised us and soon enough the four of us looked very Irish… lobster like! After realizing our capacity for the sun was not the same as the others lounging on the beach, we headed up to 360* viewpoint cafe (also known as 420 cafe, people certainly visit for both!). I have to say, this was one of the coolest spots I’ve seen in my time here, and as we chilled out in beanbags overlooking the islands and horizon, I felt content, and still feel the same thinking about the sun setting as we laughed and shared stories.

Headed back to our hostel as the darkness invited a few too many mosquitoes, we filled our bellies at the night market and prepared to head to Koh Tao in the early morning, which also welcomed my 23rd year of life!

If you’re planning to attend either Koh Phangan or the Full Moon, I would say do it, but make sure you head to the northern shore, visit the viewpoints, waterfalls, and beaches, and soak up the true beauty of this island before partying in a neon haze under a full moon on Had Rin.